Rome!!!

The eternal city ... without Teresa's photos. She took too many - so we might be missing a few angles of the Colosseum, but I am sure you will survive without. 

I took the train from Naples to Rome. I arrived at Roma Termini and walked out into the middle of a protest. Well, to be more specific I walked out into the middle of the police there because of the protest. I could see the people marching with banners, but really got to see the riot shields. I wasn't brave enough to get out my camera, though I did take some bad photos with my cell phone. 

Police waiting

I made it to the hotel and waited around for Teresa. She finally made it there too and we set out to explore Rome for the first night. And find some food. 

First view of the Trevi Fountain. It was a bit of a favourite, and we returned a bunch of times.

Teresa throwing a coin into the fountain. Did we do it right? She threw in three, I only threw in one.

The next morning we were signed up for a walking tour and ended up being the only ones on it! It was great, the guy knew so much history about Rome! He had grown up in the city as well, so had stories to share from his own life. On the way to the tour we found some surprises:

Santa Susanna!! Unfortunately closed. But when open it has English services, and also has an English language lending library run by the British Council.

Santa Susanna

And another picture ... of Largo Santa Susanna - it's all even spelled right!!

Then we had some time so decided to go into the church across the street because it was open. This was what we walked into, which made me really excited. This is Bernini's Ecstasy of St. Teresa, something I studied in art history class in university.  So we found Susanna and Teresa :)

On the walking tour - a wall from Hadrian's Temple that survived by becoming a wall in various more modern buildings

Inside the Jesuit church. This was suppose to be a real dome, but the previous next door neighbour (a monastery) didn't want a real dome as it would block their sunlight. So instead they painted one. It looks great as you walk in ... but really odd as you walk out (imagine the photo upside down).

The Pope!

The tour ended right by the Vatican, and the guide told us to go straight there after as it was Sunday and the pope does a mass for the crowd every Sunday at 11 am. What we didn't know was that it would be from a random window of a random building over looking St. Peter's square. There was a large screen as well, and of course he had a microphone. 

A Roman apartment building

After a long walk that afternoon (we calculated maybe 20 km!), we found one of the sites I had on my to see list, courtesy of Mary Beard. This is the remains of a Roman apartment building. It would have been maybe 4 or 5 stories high, with stores on the ground floor. The ground floor is well below the modern street level. It has survived partly because it was turned into a church (see the little awning?) at some point. 

Another view of the Roman apartment block with the very modern looking Vittorio Emmanuele II monument behind. I like the contrast of age, colour, and presence.

The School of Athens

Next day - Vatican museums and St. Peter's. This was another surprise that I did not know was in Rome. Though having learned just how much stuff the Vatican has, I shouldn't have been surprised at all. This is a fresco by Raphael (part of a few rooms done by him). Another piece I studied in art history, it is the School of Athens. In the middle are Plato and Aristotle. There are other known Greek philosophers in the photo, plus Raphael used some of his contemporaries as models. For example, the man with dark hair sitting and thinking in the front is supposedly modelled on Michelangelo. 

Inside St. Peter's Basilica

Something new that I learned this trip was that the bronze used by Bernini to make the canopy (called baldacchino) came from the roof of the Pantheon. Apparently up until the beginning of the renaissance many of the Roman buildings and most of the Forum was completely preserved. A couple hundred years of renaissance and it became what we have now. It is an interesting thought that the renaissance was fuelled by the Roman monuments (or more specifically their raw materials). 

The pantheon at night, for Auntie Jane

In the cat forum :) This is an archaeological area, open to view from the street level above, that also serves as a cat sanctuary. I remember it from our trip to Rome in 2003, 10 years ago. This is cat number one, the three-legged cat.

Cat number 2, with no tail. I thought this one was cute, wish I could have taken it home :)

Campo de' Fiore

We spent Tuesday morning at the Campo de' Fiore and its market. This was the closest it came to the piles of open spices that I remember from 10 years ago. They still had the flowers and the random special vegetable cutter (eg. ones that make twirls out of carrots), but it also had way more tourist pasta and spice mixes. 

The hotel where we stayed in 2003

Walking through Trastevere area of Rome. This is Santa Maria in Trastevere.

Me overlooking the Tiber

And finally in the Colosseum!! One of my only photos. Teresa took one of EVERY angle of the place, so I didn't think I needed to take them too. She took some nice photos of us, so I will post a few as soon she gets them to me.

We took a tour of the Colosseum, Paletine and Forum. The two tour guides told us so much information, then left us to explore the forum. It was neat to walk through, but after Pompeii and Herculaneum it didn't impress me as much as the first time I was there.

Another treasure I had to hunt for after having watched Mary Beard. This is a game board carved into the steps of a Forum building. We don't know how it is played, but they can be seen at other Roman buildings as well. I saw another one at the Baths of Caracalla. 

Teresa left early Wednesday morning, and I headed off to Ostia. It took only about 45 minutes to get there on the metro. I was there not long after opening, about 8:45. It was still a bit misty and with being one of the few early visitors, it gave the first part of my visit a real mystical feel. 

Walls and stairs to nowhere

Exploring the rabbit warrens of the burial area outside the Roman walls of Ostia. Most of the archaeological area that is the museum is open for exploration. Every so often you come across something blocked off, or a mosaic covered up for preservation. But mostly you can explore through alley ways, doorways, up stairs, etc. This area was especially neat as you could duck down various pathways to see where you ended up. 

Looking down the main road of Ostia

The theatre of Ostia. It is still used for concerts I believe.

Still going! I was in Ostia for over 6 hours, and was completely exhausted by the end, in a good way.

And the famed public washroom! Another Mary Beard site :) Sadly, it is closed off and you can't go and try out the Roman communal toilets.

Taking the metro back to Rome. Most of the trains I took were rather old and clunkity.

Via Appia Antica

My last day in Rome I took the metro and a bus out to the Appian Way (Via Appia Antica). I knew that it was long, but was still hoping to make it as far as the tombs that I have seen on various TV shows (yes, on Mary Beard). However, as a road outside of ancient Rome leading to other cities, it was too long. I did see some roadside tombs, but none too spectacular. The highlight of the trip was walking along the straight paved Roman road. I can't imagine what it would have been like with chariots, carts and legions of the Roman army moving along it. I can see why the army had right of way and you had to get off the road when they came, it's not too wide.

After the Appian Way I made my way back to the Baths of Carcalla. I then had just enough time to go to St. John in Latern, the cathedral of Rome. It was a pretty spectacular church. I took the tram to complete my public transit trip, and then the train out to the airport. It was an amazing trip, I still can't believe all the things I got to see. Finally I can cross off the item that has been on the top of my travel list since before I moved to Europe :)